Maple Mountain Miniatures Star News
Conformation and Movement in Miniature
EDUCATIONAL INFORMATION ON MINIS
Article 1: Buying your first Mini
Article 2: Conformation
Article 3: Class Descriptions AMHR Shows
Article 4: Farriering for the Miniature Horse
Article 5: So You Want To Drive
- Selecting a horse
- Selecting a harness
- Selecting a vehicle
- Selecting a whip
- Selecting a trainerDiagram of Harness Wrap Straps
and Breeching WrapArticle 6: Crossing The Border With Horses
Article 7: Miniature Horse Showmanship
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BUYING YOUR FIRST MINI
By Lori Rafter of
Home of
As published in The Rider
There are many reasons to purchase a Mini. Perhaps you have reached an age where you no longer feel comfortable dealing with a full size equine and yet you don't want to live without one. Maybe you have never had a horse but have always wanted one yet their size intimidates you. Maybe you are stressed out from work and just need a stress free pastime. Or you may have a small child or physically or mentally challenged individual you would like to see involved with horses but are afraid they may be injured by a large horse. A Mini is the ideal solution. With their quiet, gentle and versatile nature they make ideal companions as well as therapeutic animals and they are great stress relievers!
Whatever the reason for wanting a Mini you would be well advised to do some research and educate yourself on their care and upkeep before purchasing one from an established and reliable breeder. Although small, they are horses, and have all the same requirements as a full sized horse just in smaller quantities with some exceptions regarding deworming and healthcare. There are plenty of good resources out there in the form of books, internet forums and websites including the Miniature Horse Club of Ontario (MHCO) website at http://www.mhco.ca/ with many articles on Miniature Horse health, feeding, showing and care from which you can gather information and http://www.miniaturehorsetalk.com the Little Beginnings forum where you can ask any questions you might have.
Your first decision should be: For what purpose do I want this animal? Miniatures can be anything from a back yard pet just to soothe your soul to a fun and lively companion to a magnificent show horse that can do it all from showing at halter or in-hand performance to driving or riding for the small child. You should expect to pay accordingly – the show horse is going to cost a lot more than the back yard pet.
Once you have decided the purpose of your Mini you need to think about where and how you will keep it. The back yard pet has few requirements other than a small area to exercise in and some type of shelter from inclement weather. A one acre lot is sufficient for a couple Minis to romp in. You will need to check with your local ordinances as to legality if you desire to keep a Miniature Horse in your backyard. A three sided run-in shed or single stall barn of at least six by six feet is suitable for your pet. He will require little more than good quality hay in the way of feed. The show horse is going to require a little bit more in the way of housing and care as you will need a good sized indoor stall preferably with a grooming and bath area as well as an exercise pen and specialized feeds for keeping him fit to show. Another alternative to keeping a horse on your own property is to board your Mini at a local stable. Boarding fees vary from area to area and according to services and amenities provided such as daily turnout or indoor arenas. Check for references, talk to the people already boarding there.
There are also regular veterinary costs such as for deworming and vaccinations as well as farrier costs to take into consideration. These fees too can vary from area to area so you should check with your local professionals. Vaccinations are an annual cost and hoof trimming and deworming, depending on your individual program, needs to be done approximately every eight weeks.
Now that you have decided that you would like and can afford to own a Miniature Horse you need to find the right one for you. What sex do you want? I don’t recommend a stallion for a novice owner at all. They just aren’t a suitable choice at any age. A gelding or neutered male would be my first choice for a novice or young owner. Colts or young stallions can be purchased for a very reasonable price and then gelded which is not expensive – check with your vet. A mare would be my distant second choice as they can have issues with seasonal hormonal changes. It seems that the majority of people that buy a Mini do so with the thought of having a tiny baby in the future. Breeding with all its trials and tribulations is not for the uninitiated or novice horse owner and is best left to experienced people. If you truly want to experience the joy of birth find a breeder who will let you stay up all night and watch one of her mares foaling or view it on video. Novice buyers also tend to want a baby horse or foal. This too is not the best idea. An older, already trained individual would be the best place to start. It doesn’t always work out well when neither of you know much. Once your older, well trained horse has taught you the ropes of horse ownership you can look for a younger horse and perhaps pass your well trained teacher along to another novice.
If you are interested in showing your horse I advise you to attend several Miniature Horse shows in the area previous to your purchase. That way you will know the types of classes available and it will help you decide what type of horse you would like to purchase. There are many Fairs holding Miniature Horse shows. There are also American Miniature Horse Registry (AMHR) sanctioned shows in
To purchase your Miniature Horse you have several options. There are Miniature Horse auction sales, random classified ads in various types of publications such as The Rider, internet websites and local breeders. Internet horse shopping is not for the novice as you cannot possibly get to know the horse over the internet. Neither do I recommend auction sales for a novice shopper where you quite often get what you pay for and sometimes you don’t – rarely will you find a bargain. The method I recommend most is to visit with a local breeder. Many of these in
Once you have found the horse of your dreams there are a few things you need to check into. If you are purchasing a show horse, or one that you expect to be registered, don't just take the seller's word - ask to see the registration papers. If you are purchasing long distance they can be scanned and emailed or photocopied and snail mailed. If you don't know what you are looking at, have someone knowledgeable check them for you. Be sure that the papers are correct and up to date with the seller's name on them as the current owner or breeder. If they are not, ask the seller if they are going to be responsible for updating the papers. I personally advise not purchasing a horse without current and correct registration as getting them straightened out can become a nightmare and you may end up with an unregistered animal. Be sure to ask for a transfer slip to be signed and sent with the papers once you do purchase.
If you are purchasing a show horse or one that you intend to breed and are paying a fair bit of money for it, a pre-purchase vet check is a good and valuable tool to help you make your decision. Of course, a vet can't guarantee future health or breeding soundness, but he can point out flaws such as off bites, cryptorchid stallions, etc. and give you the present state of health of the horse you are considering. Be sure to have a vet of your choosing do the exam and expect to pay for it yourself. Another option is to have someone knowledgeable, that you know and trust, take a look at the horse for you as they also can observe the obvious flaws that might make you look elsewhere.
Once you make your decision and make an offer on the horse be sure to put it in writing. All the details of the sale should be in the written contract - amount, payment options, expectations, delivery date and details, who is paying for what (such as health certificates, Coggins, transfer of registration, shipping, etc) and when, a money-back guarantee for anything that might make you disappointed with the horse when it finally arrives such as overall health or breeding soundness, conformation faults, height guarantee, etc. The seller has the option to cross out anything that they won't guarantee, or don't agree with, before they sign the contract but then, at least you will be aware of whether or not something that would be a deal breaker is going to be guaranteed or not and can make the decision to cancel the sale at that point or go through with it.
Good luck and happy times with your new Miniature Horse!
CONFORMATION
By Lori Rafter of
Home of
Before selecting a Miniature Horse for purchase it is very important to consider the purpose for which you are purchasing him or her. If you are selecting an animal for breeding the closer you can get to perfect conformation the better. If he/she is to be a backyard pet for cuddling, perfect conformation is not a necessity although certain health considerations and the costs involved should be taken into consideration – can you afford to care for that problem, or possible problem down the road, stemming from incorrect conformation? If you are selecting a horse for performance purposes such as jumping or driving there are certain conformation flaws that may be acceptable and possibly even enhance performance. The horse’s conformation will have a direct bearing on his value and price. Obviously, no matter what your purpose, it is very important that you understand correct conformation of a horse. This article is intended to help you with that task.
Online shopping can be difficult but there are ways to help yourself out. Ask for pictures. Lots of pictures!!! There are certain features of a photo that enable you to ascertain the horse’s conformation. First of all, request that all photos, for conformation assessment purposes, be taken on level hard ground such as a driveway, sidewalk or barn aisle and not standing ankle deep in grass. A good clear shot from each side, taken from the horse’s level, not looking down or up at him, with the horse standing relatively square and with a relaxed pose, is necessary. Ask also for a photo of the front legs taken from the front and another of the back legs taken from the back with the horse standing square and nothing, such as the tail, to interfere with the view. Ask for photos of their teeth, one from the front and one from the side. Any candid photos or video available is also nice as sometimes you can see things that weren’t there in the posed shots. Photos of the sire and dam can also be useful – they show what that foal may look like once he is grown.
Conformation of a foal differs somewhat from that of a full grown horse. Their legs should be longer in comparison to their body so they should fit in a tall rectangle rather than a square. Their necks are not fully developed so will be shorter in length but should still have a nice throatlatch and tie in nicely. They legs should be slightly base wide on front and back so that when their chest and buttocks develop they won't end up base narrow but this should not be confused with being cowhocked or knock kneed - their legs should still be straight. The bite on a foal can slide in and out slightly while their teeth are developing. If you notice an off bite you should have an equine dental technician or vet take a look at them for you to determine if the flaw is caused by normal growth and will correct or can be corrected or if there is an actual conformational flaw. If you are not well versed in conformation you would be wise to show any pictures of foals you are interested in, to someone that you trust and who has more knowledge.
Ask questions of the seller. What do they consider this horse’s best and worst features? What is the horse’s temperament like? What purpose do they think the horse would be best suited for? Does the horse have any vices or bad habits? If the seller is a good breeder they will be happy to answer any and all questions that you may have and send as many photos as you require. If they seem reluctant to comply you should move on to another horse.
The first thing to look at is the overall picture. Do you like the horse in the photo? If not, move on. If he/she presents a pretty picture to you then take a closer look. Following is a basic overview of conformation with some rough illustrations to help you understand. Not every horse will fit the picture of perfection but some flaws are less desirable than others according to your purpose. Take the photos that you are sent and draw on them the lines as illustrated here. It is highly recommended that you do some research on your own before attempting to purchase. While the initial price of a pet quality Mini may be attractive, depending on the reason for its price, as a beginner you should probably avoid the possible long term expense of caring for such an animal and look to a healthier, better put together horse.
A horse’s body and legs should fit in a square.
The body should divide into 3 equal sections – shoulder, back, hip. The withers should tie well into the back. The back should be relatively level. There should not be a big dip behind the withers known as sway back. The spine should not arch upwards otherwise known as roach back.
The angle of the shoulder should match that of the hip. An approximate 45 degree angle for each forming a 90 degree angle. The humerus (bone above the elbow) should make a 90 degree angle to the shoulder as represented by the dotted line.
The angle of the fetlocks should be at an approximate 45 degrees and match that of the angle of the hoof. The back feet and fetlocks tend to be a bit steeper than the front. The pastern or ankle should not be overly long or overly short.
From the front a line drawn perpendicular to the ground, and intersecting the center of the hoof, should also intersect the centre of the knee and leg all the way up.
From the side, a line drawn perpendicular to the ground and starting from the back of the foot, should run up the cannon bone. The knee should be flat to this line not tipped forward as in the bench knee or tipped back as in the calf knee.
From the side, a line drawn perpendicular to the ground should run straight up the cannon bone and hock of the back leg and touch the furthermost point of the buttocks. Do not confuse a horse that is standing stretched with one that is camped out behind. A line drawn along the back of the cannon bone may not be perpendicular but it should still touch the furthermost point of the buttocks. Do ask them to send you another photo with the horse standing with at least one hind leg square to be sure.
The head and neck should be proportionate in size and balanced to the body. The head should be attractive, neither too large nor too small, with a nice eye. Small eyes are called pig eyes. A small dish to the face is desirable but the forehead should not appear to be bulbous. It should join the neck at an open angle of more than 90 degrees. The neck should be neither too short nor too long. The neck should arch slightly at the top and be slim at the throatlatch where it joins the head. It should not look as if it has been put on upside down with a bulge on the underside called a ewe neck. The neck should tie in well at the chest, neither too high nor too low. You should be able to place the width of your hand between the point of shoulder and the bottom of the neck.
The hooves should be centered on the leg. They should not be overly large or small in comparison to the horse. They should have a fairly smooth surface. Ask for closeup photos of the hooves from the side and with the foot held up to see the underside of the foot. The front hooves should be round and the back hooves slightly oval. The angle of the hoof should match that of the pastern. Some hoof problems may be corrected with proper farrier care but they may be structural in nature and should be avoided. If you like everything about the horse except his feet ask the seller for contact information for their farrier and speak to him. Founder is a chronic problem with the feet and is characterized by a wrinkled appearance to the hoof wall although it may not be as evident as in this illustration. Unless you are prepared to deal with the special care and expense this condition requires, it should be avoided.
Teeth are important to the horse’s ability to eat and digest his food. Serious flaws in their construction are detrimental to the horse’s health and overall well being. Dental problems are prevalent in Minis due to their past breeding. Ask to see photos of their teeth from the side and front. Their teeth should meet and line up fairly evenly or with a very slight overbite which is normal. With younger horses, those that have not finished growing, the bite can fluctuate in and out by a small amount such as an eighth inch or more but avoid a Mini of any age with a serious under or over bite. Tooth bumps under the jaws or on the cheeks just below the eyes can be caused by caps that have not come off. Have them checked by a veterinarian or equine dentist.
Some of the more drastic conformation flaws are a result of dwarfism. Dwarfism has long been a problem in Miniature Horses due to past breeding practices. Please visit at least some of the following sites and acquaint yourselves with the types and characteristics of dwarfism, a dwarf’s health problems, pain and likely death.
http://www.mini-horse.org/menu_dwarfism.html
http://ltlamerica.tripod.com/dwarfism.html
http://www.smallhorse.com/ExpertArticles/index.html
http://www.geocities.com/pixiesyard/Index.html
This article has been prepared and presented by
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CLASS DESCRIPTIONS
By Lori Rafter of
Home of
As published in The Rider
For those of you that have never attended a Miniature Horse Show or, perhaps have, but didn’t really understand what was being presented this will attempt to explain the different classes offered. It may also help those of you that are considering exhibiting in a Miniature Horse show but are unsure of what is expected.
Halter Classes - These are the breed classes. Each class, stallion, mare or gelding of different age and height groups, is judged against the breed standard of perfection. This varies somewhat from registry to registry but the classes are meant to reward the best conformation exhibited on that day both while the horse is moving, to see its performance capability, and while standing still. There are Open Halter classes that anyone may exhibit a horse in, and Amateur Halter classes that only amateur exhibitors may compete in. The first and second place winners from all the classes in each of the stallion, mare and gelding divisions perform against each other to ascertain a champion of each sex. The 3 Champions may also be asked to compete against each other resulting in the awarding of Supreme Halter Horse title for the day.
Model Class – This class exhibits the model horse or one who has the best conformation while posing only. The horses are not expected to move. They must be 2 years old or over and should represent the model of perfection, according to the breed standard, for which to breed.
Showmanship – This class is intended to help teach young and amateur exhibitors to show at halter and present their horse at its best. It is judged on the exhibitor’s performance only. There is a pattern that each exhibitor is expected to perform individually with their horse who is merely a prop for the class.
Multi Colour Class – This class is for pinto and appaloosa horses only and is judged solely by the judge’s preference for colour. The horses are usually asked to parade in a circle around the judge first in one direction and then reverse so the judge may see the other side of the horse. The horse should exhibit the best possible representation of it’s own particular colour and a healthy, glossy coat.
Solid Colour Class – Judged and presented in the same way as the Multi Colour Class except this one is for any other colour than pinto or appaloosa. The individual horses should exhibit the best representation of their own colour, for example: a black should be truly black and not be sun bleached.
Hunter – This jumping class is judged on style over fences. The horse should jump in the same manner as a full size hunter horse would with a quiet, calm manner and even gait. If the course is started at a trot or canter the same gait should be maintained throughout the entire performance. They should skim the fences and not waste a lot of energy over jumping. Although it is preferable not to, the horse may knock down a fence and still win the class if it performs well otherwise. The fences should be similar to what you would find out of doors such as walls, chicken coops, board fences, etc.
Jumper – In this class the horse is expected to clear all the fences without any knockdowns. It doesn’t matter how the horse gets over the fence, what it looks or how it performs, as long as it doesn’t knock any down. The horse may be shown in any gait between the fences, even come to a walk. There are faults awarded for knockdowns, run outs and refusals. A tie is broken by a jump off where the fences are quite often raised, the course, or a shortened version of the course, is run again by the tied exhibitors and it is timed. The fences are similar to what you would expect to see in a full size jumper show ring.
Halter Obstacle - Halter Obstacle is similar to trail in the Western horse arena. The horses perform in hand over, through and around a variety of obstacles such as cones, tarps, water, bridges, etc. The horses may be required to perform such maneuvers as a turn on the forehand, turn on the haunches, side pass or back up. They should quietly and confidently perform whatever is asked of them without either rushing or showing resistance to the handler.
Costume Class – In this class the exhibitors dress themselves and their horses in theme costumes and parade in the ring. It is judged quite often by the crowd’s reactions or at the judge’s discretion. The more humorous or unique the costume the more likely it is to be a winner. The costume must be safe for both the horses and the exhibitors.
Country Pleasure Driving – The horse is asked to perform at a walk, slow trot, working trot, strong or extended trot as well as to back up and stand quietly. It is judged on their performance, manners, gaits, presentation and overall impression. The horses are expected to have a long, strong, ground covering stride at all gaits, with little knee or hock action, which would comfortably get you someplace you wanted to go. They are shown to a 2 wheeled cart only with light harness. There are no cross entries from Pleasure or Park allowed.
Pleasure Driving – The horse is asked to perform at a walk, slow trot, working trot, and an extended or strong trot as well as to back up and stand quietly. It is judged on their gaits, manner, performance, presentation and overall impression. The pleasure horse is expected to be a little more animated, fancier mover with more knee and hock action and higher head carriage than the Country horse. They are shown to a 2 wheel vehicle using light harness. There are no cross entries from Country or Park allowed.
Park Harness – This class is also asked to perform at a walk, slow trot, working trot and extended or strong trot but they are not asked to back. It is judged on their gaits and the horse is expected to have quite high knee and hock action, as well as high head carriage, with lots of flair and pizzazz! There are no cross entries from Country or Pleasure allowed. The horses are shown to a 4 wheeled viceroy or 2 wheeled vehicle with a light breastcollar harness.
Roadster – These are the race horses of the driving world. They are asked to perform at a trot only, exhibiting the slow jog trot, the faster road gait and the fully extended drive on trot or trot at speed. They are not asked to back up or walk. They are shown to a 2 wheeled race bike type cart and are judged mostly on their 3 distinctive gaits. Any Country, Pleasure or Park type horse may cross enter into this class.
Stakes Classes – These are considered the Champion classes of the driving division. Only 1st and 2nd places are awarded in each stakes class. You must enter in the respective harness class to enter the Champion class of that division. They are run the same as the individual class types.
There are a few more classes available at some Mini shows, such as draft harness or leadline, but these are the main ones you are likely to see at most shows.
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